The three tribes of Ecuador

People on the coast are quite different from those living in the highlands. I’ve been getting used to pronouncing double L as J, but on the coast, they use the Spanish Y-sound. Also, they don’t sound the S at the end of a word, so (for example) they would say vamo and not vamos.

I think there are three kinds of Ecuadorian - those who live in Quito; those who wear wellies, hats and ponchos; and those who wear shorts and flip flops.

On the coast, people are in shorts and flip-flops. They are also fatter and taller than the people in the highlands. One theory is that there has been more mixing with other races, especially those of African origin, another says they eat more protein (fish).

Emilia, being uncharacteristically mean, says that because people on the coast eat fried bananas they get big bottoms. They do eat a lot of bananas and there are some enormous bellies and bottoms, which you just don't see in somewhere like Simiatug. A favourite trick of the male population (especially on hot days) is to roll their T-shirt up above their bellies. It’s not attractive.

There seems to be a little more money about, but ordinary folk are still very poor. Motorcycles are a means of transport, not a toy for menopausal men, and they often carry up to four people. Few people wear helmets and there’s a regular seating arrangement on the bike for families. Tom would be riding, Aureliano would be sitting on the tank, Lucy at the back and Julia between mum and dad. I’ve seen tiny babies being carried by mum on the pillion.